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Paperwork
To be quite honest: dealing with paperwork has always been a drag for me. But two months of dealing with various embassies & regulations has taken patience to a completely new level. (I'll spare you the details here – check out the blog/diary for more information).
Visa:
Avoiding the Stans (Central Asia) would have made things much easier – but then again, I wouldn't get to see the Silk Route & Pamir Mountains. Anyway... here's some visa information in a nutshell:
| Uzbekistan |
30 days Tourist Visa: £35; 2 weeks processing time in London; needed for getting the Turkmenistan transit via |
| Tajikistan |
30 days Tourist Visa; €50 including GBAO permit; 1 week processing time in Berlin |
| Kyrgyzstan |
30 days Tourist Visa (double entry, in case there's problems with China); €90, 1-2 weeks processing time in Berlin; TRIP UPDATE: What I thought was a double-entry visa, was in fact a single-entry. If there's a "X" on the number "2" in your visa, it doesn't mean the "2" is ticked - it means it's crossed out. I only found this out when I was already in Kyrgyzstan.
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| Iran |
30 days Tourist Visa; Letter of Invitation takes 3 weeks
TRIP UPDATE: I met fantastic people everywhere in Iran - they really take hospitality to a new, unprecedented level! But: The consulate in Frankfurt has been nothing but a royal pain in the neck, changing and bending the rules just as badly as their collegues from the Turkmenistan Embassy. At the time of processing the visa (I had been waiting to get my passport back from them for 8 days), it was impossible to get through to the Frankfurt visa section (lines permanently engaged for 2 days!) - and the one time I DID get through to them, they put the phone down on me after 1/2 second. I ended up getting the Frankfurt consul's mobile number from their Embassy in Berlin, and after another 2 days got my passport with the dreaded visa.
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| Turkmenistan |
5-day Transit Visa; each Turkmenistan Embassy (London, Berlin, Brussels, Vienna) will tell you different rules. I applied in advance by e-mail, providing scans of all necessary documents to the Turkmenistan embassy in Vienna; before I pick up the visa in Vienna, I need a valid visa for the neighbouring countries (Uzbekistan & Iran) in my passport;
TRIP UPDATE: Although generally frienly, the embassy in Vienna has been messing me about. They changed their rules for Transit visa, saying they need a Letter Of Invitation now - something that's simply NOT possible, because there is no LOI for a 'Transit' type vise. Then they changed their rules again, and we proceeded as planned (without LOI). The worst thing about it: although I had already applied & been emailing them, there was no updates or communication from their side. |
| China |
the visa for getting into China turned out to be the biggest nightmare of this trip - mainly because of China's new visa policies during the Olympic Games in 2008; unseccessful application in Tehran, but finally got it in Tashkent; in order to take a motorcycle into China, one needs a guide - and after some not-so-good experience with another guide, I STRONGLY recommend the guys from Newland Travel in Kashgar. They managed to get us through China within a VERY short notice, and overall have been very helpful. Unfortunately we had to put the bikes onto a truck from Tashkorgan to the border exit post - but at least we made it. |
| Pakistan |
I got this one in London. Because I'm German, it was a bit of an 'exercise in madness' and took over a week to obtain (with 4 visits to the embassy, and non-existent communication from their side!). In case you're having difficulties obtaining this visa: When I entered Pakistan (coming from China), I asked at the Sost border crossing: They issue a 'visa on arrival' at the border without any problems! (at least for most European citizens). |
| India |
I applied for this in Islamabad / Pakistan. Processing time was 8 days. I requested a 3-month double-entry, but was given a single-entry only. (Other travellers applied for 6 months multiple entry and got it.... they either didn't like my name or face, or their process is just a bit random).
Note: The 'diplomatic enclave' in Islamabad has special security precausions, and might not be accessible by taxi. There's a shuttle bus going there though - easy enough to find out when you're there. |
Other Paperwork:
I will carry photocopies of all documents with me (some of them laminated), mainly to deal with roadside police check points. (Never(!) give out an original document, or you might be in for a serious bribe)
| Carnet de Passage |
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The carnet de passage is more or less a visa for vehicles. Certain countries require a carnet, to ensure you don't sell your bike in the country. For each of those countries, the carnet documents have to be stamped in & out at the border (upon entering & leaving the country).
Luckily, the German ADAC is very easy & friendly to deal with. I went to their head office in Munich and left a refundable deposit of €3000 for the bike, plus €100 processing fee. The whole process took less than 1 hour. |
| International Drivers Permit |
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to be obtained from the RAC |
| Insurance |
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A Green Insurance Card (from my regular bike insurance) will cover me around Europe; beyond Europe, insurance is usually available at country borders. |
| Drivers License |
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(though I know people who don't have one of those & been cruising around in S-America for a good few years ;) |
| Passport |
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plus photocopies stored on a secure internet site |
| Vaccinations Certificate |
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| Travel Insurance |
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For travel insurance, it's crucial to check the small print. Some insurances don't cover motorcycle travelling for bikes over 125cc. |
| Vehicle Registration |
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| MOT Certificate |
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Vaccinations
I already had most of the necessary vaccinations from my last trip to South America. For my trip through Europe, Centra Asia, South East Asia and Australia, this is what I got recommended by my nurse.
Must-haves:
Tetanus, Polio, Typhoid, Hepatitis A & B, Diphteria, Tuberculosis, Meningitis, Yellow Fever (certificate of vaccination required for Australia).
Optional: Tick-borne encephalitis, Japanese Encephalitis, Rabies
Malaria: unfortunately there's no vaccine against malaria. Anti-malarial drugs only decrease the risk of getting malaria but are never 100% safe. So the best thing to do is: don't get bitten. I am currently negotiating with a company for sponsoring me with a tent. My preferred tent has an inner tent, which can be used as a mosquito net on hotel beds.
For anti-malarial drugs, I will carry a combination of Malarone, Doxycycline and Proguanil (each for different countries/areas between eastern Iran and Indonesia).
(Please note that the above list is what was recommended to me in 2008. Go and see your doctor or nurse to find out what's recommended for you!) |
