The Bike ('Dolly')

Choosing the 'right' bike can lead to weeks of research on various motorcycle discussion forums. A little bit of research sure isn't a bad thing, and forums can help to identify a bike's weakpoints. But, for reasons of brand-loyalty they can also be a little opinionated at times, as everyone seems to have a good reason for praising certain bikes or disregarding others. Chris Scott's "Adventure Motorcycling Handbook" was a good starting point for looking into travel-worthy bike options. In the end, I think it came down to personal preference, road/off-road capabilities and the planned route.
After some basic research & trying a few bikes I decided to go for BMW's F650 GS Dakar. The chain-driven single cylinder BMW enduro has been around for quite a while now, with regular updates every few years. It is mechanically simple & easy to fix (apart from the fuel injection system), very economical (below 5l/100km) and very comfortable to ride. Compared to the standard 'GS', the 'Dakar' has slightly more emphasis on off-road riding, offering a thinner & larger 21" front wheel, better front/back suspension and a higher seat.
Generally, the build quality is fairly good & most of the F650's know problems areas can be overcome whilst prepping the bike for the journey and by taking the appropriate spare parts (wheel bearings, head bearings and water pump repair kit).

Luggage

The two main categories here are soft luggage and aluminium panniers. My criteria were: it has to be waterproof, safe against theft (so I can leave it on the bike when I go for a stroll), easy to take off, and sturdy enough so it stays on the bike in case of an off.
Overland Solutions provided a fantastic pannier system, which is one of the sturdiest I've come across: 3mm waterproof aluminium panniers (32l each), lockable with padlocks, and a sturdy metal frame with a 'shelf-style' system to place the panniers securely. The frame has plenty of space to attach tie-down straps and bungee-cords to hold extra fuel & water when necessary. On the inside of the frame (below the exhausts) are 2 additional toolboxes to hold tools, spares and everything I don't need on a daily basis.
Everything at Overland Solutions is built-to-order. They specialize in prepping up vehicles (including cars) for desert riding and 'the big trip', and they are very flexible to cater for special requests.
The tankbag is from Touratech: expandable and with 2 soft side panniers (optional/zip-on). It was only water-repellant, so I made up a waterproof insert from an old sleeping mat. The tank-bag will hold my valuables and important documents. Whenever I leave the bike, I can quickly zip it off and carry it as a backpack.

Bike Modifications

There are plenty of aftermarket modifications available from various manufacturers, yet I tried to stay away from most of them & only went for what I thought was important to me.

Sheep skin on the seat bench (hence the bike's name)
My parents sponsored the sheep skin that's been lying in their bedroom for as long as I can think.
Good in hot areas, not so good when it rains. But it is indeed more comfortable than just the plain black plastic cover.

Handle-bar raisers
Raising the handle-bars improves comfort, especially for tall people (I'm 1.86m). Due to working with computers for a long time, I suffer from RSI / carpal tunnel syndrome in my wrists. Handle-bar raisers help me to maintain a healthy riding position, with no angle between arm and hand. Also, when standing in the foot-pegs (in difficult/offroad terrain), the handle-bars are easier to reach.

Progressive fork springs
The F650's original front suspension is quite soft, and a fully-laden bike can 'dive in' quite a lot when breaking hard (or in off-road use). I fitted progressive fork springs in conjunction with thicker suspension oil (10W) in order to increase bike handling.
Hagon Shocks have a very good reputation and were cheaper than their Touratech counterparts.

Metal chain guard
Not really necessary, but: The original chain guard was broken anyway (giving a rattling noise when hitting the swingarm), and I found a reasonably cheap one on ebay (€25 from motorrad-planet.de – Touratech's aluminium one is €70)

Chain Oiler
Another cheap option: the Loobman chain oiler (£18 inc postage). I picked it up here in London from the guy who makes them. The system works feeds through gravity and works with anything from engine oil to olive oil. A good squeeze on the oil container bottle prior to setting off – sorted. At 4-5x the price "Scottoilers" might look more professional, but I heard it can be a nightmare to adjust the correct oil flow. Whenever possible, I try to fill up with some ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid for cars), as it's said to be a good chain oil.
Trip update: The chain oiler's been very good, and ATF is readily available everywhere. Only downside of the Loobman: the cable ties (which act as leads for the lubricant) need replacing every now & then. Not a big job to do though.

Aluminium front sprocket cover, Rallye foot-pegs, Engine Crash Guard
The new cover (Touratech) makes it easier to clean the front sprocket, and in case of an extremely worn-out chain it helps to keep the chain in place/protect the engine housing.
The foot-pegs had been fitted by the previous owner. Overland Solutions added a more stable mounting (the black bit), which also protects the brake pedal.

Additional Auxiliary Power Socket
The F650 already comes with a power socket (on the left hand side near the engine). I put an additional one near the dashboard, so I can easily run a cable into the tankbag for charging my mobile phone/camera batteries/AA batteries or the GPS.

Battery
I replaced the original battery with an 'Odyssey PC310' dry cell battery . It provides a higher cranking power, doesn't leak should the bike fall over – and it's smaller than the original battery. This leaves some extra space underneath the battery, to carry some spares such as brake pads.


Brake Cylinder Protection
The rear brake cylinder is fairly exposed, so I made up a protector from a 3mm aluminium sheet & bent it so it fits snuggly and doesn't touch the right foot's heel. The protector simply screws on top of the brake cylinder (using the original bolts).